At Home in the Big House

 
 


“I have come to realise, and value immensely, that the Fulbright experience is not just about working hard at graduate school, but also about seizing every opportunity that presents itself to get completely immersed in the American culture.”
- Lucila van Dam

 

Lucila van Dam is a 2006 Fulbright New Zealand Graduate Student from Wellington, who is completing a Master of Laws degree, specialising in criminal procedure and constitutional law, at the University of Michigan in Ann Arbor.

Lucila van Dam and friend at a Michigan Wolverines game
Lucila van Dam (left) and friend at a Michigan Wolverines game

A-B-C-D-E-F-G-H-I… just returned from Kalamazoo. Glenn Miller may have found the love of his life and the inspiration for his song in this small Michigan town, but sadly all I can attribute to Kalamazoo is getting very, very lost in its maze of one-way streets while en route to explore the eastern shoreline of Lake Michigan on my Fall Break. Despite this tumultuous beginning, I had a fantastic time getting back to my Dutch roots in the town of Holland, finding a café in Traverse City that boasted lattes that tasted just like the coffee back in Wellington (which is no small feat!), and running rampant down the 150 feet high sand dunes in Sleeping Bear National Park.

Aside from providing some reprieve from the rigours of academic life, Fall Break gave me pause for reflection on how I have spent my first two months living and studying in the United States.

I feel very fortunate to be studying at the University of Michigan Law School. Its small size and relative isolation give it a very collegial and intimate feeling; the students are friendly, the professors approachable, and the administrators proactively helpful. Although the Law School’s strength lies in the field of international law, its professors are also prominent in a number of other, very diverse fields including feminist legal theory, constitutional law, remedies, and negotiation. So far I have found my courses, and the Socratic method in which they are taught, very challenging, but also immensely engaging and stimulating.

In addition, Michigan Law School offers many opportunities to learn outside of the classroom. In the last two weeks we have had a number of fascinating evening seminars, including pioneer of feminist legal theory Catharine MacKinnon discussing her views on women’s status in international law, Judge of the International Court of Justice Bruno Simma sharing his behind-the-scenes experiences at the Court, and Alex Joel, the first Civil Liberties Protection Officer for the US Office of the Director of National Security, providing insight into his responsibilities in that role and working under John Negroponte. One can’t help but feel absorbed in this vibrant academic environment.

Another interesting, and I would say unique, facet to the Law School is its strong public service ethos. This ethos is manifested in a number of ways: through its mandatory volunteer day where we spent a day cleaning and gardening at a nearby drug rehabilitation centre; through its clinical programs that provide legal assistance to indigent or disempowered peoples; and through its strong encouragement for students to get involved in the community. As a result I have been inspired to volunteer once a month at a soup kitchen in Detroit, as well as to undertake (when time permits!) legal research to assist local refugees as part of the Michigan Student Asylum and Refugee Law Project.

But I have come to realise, and value immensely, that the Fulbright experience is not just about working hard at graduate school, but also about seizing every opportunity that presents itself to get completely immersed in the American culture. To that end, I have become a dedicated supporter of the Wolverines, the University of Michigan Football team, which has been undefeated this season and which is currently ranked third in the nation. To acquire the esteemed title of Dedicated Supporter one must religiously attend the “tailgates” before the game (even if that means getting up at 8am on a Saturday morning!), learn to love American beer (which is harder than it sounds), purchase (and display on one’s person) inordinate amounts of Michigan paraphernalia, and learn all the chants and rituals associated with the game. While I still do not understand the rules of the game, I am confident that even if I never do, just experiencing the electric atmosphere in the 112,000 person “Big House” stadium is the real thrill of the event.

Then there is the actual city of Ann Arbor, with its delightful college town feel, in the heart of Michigan. Although there are only around 110,000 residents, the town is brimming with activity and energy at all hours. As such it has become a cultural hotspot, attracting a number of popular rock bands, classical acts, and even the Royal Shakespeare Company. The arboretum and botanical gardens which flank the main campus provide a sanctuary for those of us who love to take time out to escape to the wilderness. I am always delighted to see all the American wildlife while I am out running the trails in the arboretum, even if the locals consider the squirrels and chipmunks to be akin to rats!

Lucila van Dam and friend at a Michigan Wolverines game
Lucila enjoying the first snowfall of the season

I haven’t really experienced any culture shock, but there are a few things that have particularly caught my attention: the phenomenon of drive-thru banking (and the accompanying fact that Americans do not consider this to be curious at all), and the strange weather patterns. We have spectacular thunderstorms once or twice every week, the rain drops are three times the size of those in New Zealand, and in the space of a week the weather can change from being hot and sunny to snowfall. We had our first snowfall exactly one week ago. I was very excited to be able to catch snow flakes on my tongue and to wear legitimately my down jacket for the first time, but I do appreciate that once snow becomes a daily reality to be contended with (rather than frolicked in) my enthusiasm will wane. This may explain why I was the only student playing in the snow in the law quadrangle!

It is hard to believe that I have only been here two months - I feel so attached to this new life. I am very grateful to Fulbright New Zealand for giving me this opportunity to experience all that I have and all that awaits me in the next seven months!

 
 
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