Matthew Wittmann is a 2006 Fulbright US Graduate Student,
who has spent the last year studying at Victoria University of Wellington
on the circulation of American culture in the late-19th century Pacific,
towards a PhD from the University of Michigan.
Matthew Wittmann in Tongariro National
Park
I first arrived in New Zealand last February on a bright and sunny day
that seemed to reflect my own hopes for the year to come and although
the Wellington weather proved rather rough at times, my optimistic expectations
for the Fulbright experience were more than fulfilled.
As a historian I was already familiar with the broad story of Aotearoa’s
past, but quickly found that I had much to learn about the contours of
contemporary Kiwi life. Luckily, a number of newly-made friends helped
ease the transition and I now know the strategy behind a good scrum, how
to prepare a proper hangi and why sheep don’t have tails, amongst
other things. At any rate, I found myself living in an apartment just
off Courtenay Place, which though loud at times, ensured that something
fun to do was always close at hand.
My project focused on tracing the history of American entertainers that
traveled around New Zealand and the Pacific during the 19th century so
I spent most of my time sorting through old newspapers and the archives
of the Alexander Turnbull Library. During my time in Wellington, I was
generously hosted by the Pacific Studies Programme at Victoria University
and the chance this afforded to interact with and learn from other students
and scholars from all over the Pacific was one of the highlights of the
time I spent here.
Just like the performers I study, the search for historical materials
took me all over New Zealand, from a tiny museum at Paihia in the Bay
of Islands to the wonderful Hocken Library down in Dunedin. From my many
conversations with people around the country, I’ve come to appreciate
that New Zealanders as a whole seem to be very interested in their history,
which made it a congenial place for someone like me to work.
Sea kayaking with girlfriend Stacey
Beyond research, I was also able to travel around and enjoy all of the
great and varied activities and landscapes that New Zealand has to offer.
In late November, I walked the Milford Track with my girlfriend Stacey
and though there was a wild mix of rain, snow, and sunshine, it proved
an invigorating walk and certainly delivered some incredible views. In
the opposite direction, we also spent a memorable week in the Coromandel
doing some kayaking, but mostly just relaxing on the lovely beaches.
The many cultural events and activities that abound in Wellington also
kept me busy. Just as I arrived the International Arts and Fringe Festivals
were just beginning and featured some extraordinary shows. Beyond these
and throughout the year, I was able to see some excellent theatre, concerts,
and even my first ballet (Witi Ihimaera’s “The Wedding”).
As somewhat of a sports junkie back in the US, I was a little worried
about the sporting fare down here, but quickly was introduced to the excitement
of rugby. My long-suffering friend Graeme also took me to a cricket test
and explained over numerous beers and in painstaking detail all of the
intricacies and wacky terminology of the game. I even got involved in
sports myself with the touch rugby squad at Victoria and in January of
this year I took the plunge into Wellington harbour for my first ocean
swim race.
Unfortunately, my time here in New Zealand is coming to a close and soon
I will be headed back to the frozen tundra of central Michigan to finish
my doctorate. All in all though, it has been a year to remember and I
know that I am traveling home a much different and better person for all
that has happened. Overall, the unique experience offered by the Fulbright
Program has provided me with a wider perspective on life and I will return
to the United States with great memories and looking forward to my next
visit to New Zealand.
