From New York to New Zealand

Dana Greenfield is a 2007 Fulbright US Graduate Student from New York who has been based at the University of Canterbury since February, conducting research into the medical management of intersex.

Dana Greenfield

It’s a crisp sunny day in the middle of the southern winter, and I’ve just returned from the Sunday market at the Riccarton Racecourse with fresh vegetables, fruit and my favourite pesto in hand. Just six months ago, I began this weekly ritual upon my arrival in Christchurch. The novelty of walking amidst the bustling stands of colourful produce, baked goods, tchotchkes, gizmos, antique wares and artists’ crafts soon became a comforting habit in my new life in New Zealand. This and other small rituals - cycling to uni, lingering at local cafes, gardening, yoga etc. - set the pace for my relatively quiet South Island life. Soon, I will be moving to Auckland to complete the rest of my work, and I am reflecting back fondly on this city that has become my temporary home.

When I arrived here in the summer from snowy New York, the warmth of the sun was not only refreshing but recharged my winter- and travel-weary spirits. I was ready to begin this year of new experiences, people and research. On the ride from the airport to town, I learned I was in the “garden city” - homes were in full bloom and Cathedral Square anticipated the Festival of Flowers. In town, I quickly found my new flat, a 100 year-old daffodil-yellow cottage on the corner of Gloucester and Barbadoes, a stark contrast to my red brick walk-up at 112th and Broadway in Manhattan. Soon, my previous life in New York City melted away as I joined new friends in daily explorations of cafes, restaurants, beaches, concerts, gardens and weekend excursions to Kaikoura, Akaroa and Arthur’s Pass.

However, one aspect of life remained the same: building upon two years of anthropology work in the US, I came to New Zealand to perform a cross-cultural analysis of the medical management of intersex conditions. My research began during our exciting orientation week in February in Wellington, when I sought out the person most responsible for my travels: Mani Bruce Mitchell, intersex activist and founder of Intersex Trust of Aotearoa New Zealand (ITANZ).

I first met Mani through her award-winning documentary Yellow for Hermaphrodites: Mani’s Story, which depicts her struggle to uncover and confront childhood surgeries, trauma and the secrecy of her condition. My fieldwork began with an interview in Mani’s office, where, in a reversal of her usual therapeutic role as counsellor, she spoke about her life with the same eloquence, deliberation and strength that made her film so compelling. This first meeting was thrilling and, much like our intense orientation schedule of lectures, excursions, meetings and lessons, framed my journey ahead.

So far, my most rewarding experiences have been connecting with the individuals I interview - parents, advocates and physicians. Every meeting is new, unique and gives me a view into the social minutiae of intersex in New Zealand. Investigating this uncharted territory is often daunting and there have been moments when I have felt overwhelmed by the task at hand, but I’m continually encouraged and heartened by these people who welcomed me into their community and believe that our work together will make a difference in the lives of future patients. Also, the chance to work with people at the Ministry of Social Development and the Human Rights Commission regarding intersex issues (opportunities not readily available to me in the US) has also encouraged me that my academic work can have a real political effect.

Jumping back into uni life has also been a nice relief from my short stint in the working world following my graduation in May ’06. Even though I was coming from a city of 8 million people to one a fraction of the size, compared to my small liberal arts college Canterbury University was a much bigger pond. Nevertheless, the concert-filled O-week, my advisor Annie Potts and the wonderful staff in the American and Gender Studies Departments eased my transition. Once settled, I had the opportunity to take classes in gender theory and sociology, attend departmental seminars, learn yoga and how to rock climb, practice permaculture in the community garden, join the tramping club and become a devoted listener to RDU 98.5FM.

Finding a little bit of New York in New Zealand, I’ve continued my jazz singing with local chanteuse Sacha van Beek and discovered a small yet thriving world of jazz and funk musicians in town. As an avid music fan, I was unsure about getting my music fix here, but I’ve enjoyed exploring (and studying with) some of the abundant home-grown talent.

Dana Greenfield (seated) prepares for a tramping excursion with fellow Fulbright US Graduate Students Amanda Cravens, Emily Howard and Becky Hamner

Outside of Christchurch, the beauty of the South Island has been at my doorstep, and so far, has enabled me to tramp through Fiordland, ramble up the West Coast, clamber up Avalanche Peak in Arthur’s Pass, drink my way through Marlborough, fish in Kaikoura, sail in Akaroa and walk on glaciers in Queenstown. My research has also taken me across the ditch to Sydney and Melbourne, where I’ve gained another perspective on life Down Under.

My Fulbright experience is my first time living abroad and has taught me much beyond the practicalities of beginning a new life somewhere unknown. I’ve also discovered the pleasures of cultivating a relationship with a new country, its people and land. This opportunity has introduced me to new ideas, cultures, histories and values, and has prompted me to look at old and continuing research with fresh eyes. As I begin to look northward, I anticipate meeting more practitioners, parents and advocates in Auckland and Wellington, and continuing to travel and learn about more facets of Kiwi life in this complex and vibrant country.